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The John Lobb factory is a highly respected manufacturers in Northampton, a city that rose to prominence as a core of the shoe industry in the 17th century. Although it became part of the Hermes Group in 1976, the factory is dedicated to preserving the methods developed in the 19th century.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. For example, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife striking the cutting table. With feather knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is carefully restricted, with only roughly 450 to 500 pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.
Similar to Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from young French calf hides. Only 60% of each hide is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The range combines iconic staples with subtle refinements. The classic City II model, for instance, have been given a more elegant outline. The Sennen shoes gained refined buckles and a thicker sole. The Lopez loafers, introduced in the mid-20th century, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah sneakers, which are offered annually in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its balance of heritage and innovation, John Lobb remains one of the pillars in the British footwear industry.
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