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John Lobb is a legendary manufacturers in Northampton, a city that earned its reputation as a shoemaking capital in the seventeenth century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the traditional production process developed in the 1800s.
Technology is used, but sparingly. For instance, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, plastic patterns are made, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the characteristic snap of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With feather knives, they cut the hides manually.
Production is intentionally small, with only 450–500 pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees work on multiple models daily, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb sources the best-quality hides, particularly from young French calf hides. Only slightly more than half of the leather is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The range combines iconic staples with modern updates. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen model gained refined buckles and a more robust foundation. The Lopez classic, introduced in the 1950s, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah shoes, which are offered annually in a mix of colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb remains a defining name in the British footwear industry.
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