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John Lobb shoemakers is one of the leading manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that became famous as a shoemaking capital in the 1600s. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory continues to uphold the craft techniques developed in the Victorian era.
Although machinery exists, tradition dominates. Specifically, lasers are not used to cut leather. Instead, lasers create plastic patterns, which are handed to specialized artisans called clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife touching the cutting table. With traditional knives, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is intentionally small, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welting, allowing the worn sole to be changed without damaging the upper.
In line with Hermes, John Lobb uses exceptional materials, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only slightly more than half of the leather is usable for uppers, while the remainder becomes minor leather goods.
The collection combines heritage designs with modern updates. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, now feature a sleeker silhouette. The Sennen double monks gained refined buckles and a more robust foundation. The Lopez loafers, introduced in 1950, were updated with new colors and rubber soles. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah sneakers, which are released each season in various colors and materials.
Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb continues to be a defining name in English shoemaking.
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